Fimmvörðuháls Trail: Part 2 (w/ Epilogue)

This trail has three distinct sections: 1) The steep climb out of the Krossá River basin near Þórsmörk; 2) The transit across the challenging rugged volcanic and glacial terrain between the Eyjafjallajökull and Mýrdalsjökull glaciers; and 3) The long descent along the Skógá River to the southern coastal town of Skógar.

In the first 5 hours of our day we completed the first two sections. After a short 30 minute break at the Baldvinsskáli Hut to rest and eat lunch, it was time to tackle the final 8.5 mi (13.7 km) as we descend thru the Skógá River valley to Skogár.

Although we were tired and this final section would take about 4 hours to complete, we were looking forward to the change in scenery and the 26 waterfalls we’d see along the way. For awhile the trail simply followed a very rocky and unforgiving access road as we slowly began to descend. But, after about 45 minutes the trail separated from the road, and we began to see glimpses of the Skógá River and some of our first waterfalls of the day.

The beginning of the final section along the Skógá River

As we continued the long descent, the land transformed from rock and scrub to lush green fields. Seemingly around every turn or beyond every bluff was another waterfall.

We also noticed that there were significantly more people on this section of the trail. Some of them were either starting or finishing the “F” trail, but most appeared to be day hikers who were climbing the river trail from Skogár, to see the same falls we were enjoying.

This part of the trail was also popular with sheep who seemed undeterred by the hikers as they went about their day grazing on the tender green grasses. In some cases, we could look up the rugged river valley and see sheep casually grazing on the steep canyon walls that were covered with a misty dew from the nearby waterfalls.

Nearing the end of our hike it was clear that the famous Skógafoss waterfall was close due to the sheer number of people we were passing on this lowest part of the trail. Surprisingly, we also passed some groups of hikers loaded down with heavy packs who were just beginning their day on the “F” trail as they passed us going the other way.

Finally, we reached the viewing platform at the top of Skógafoss visited by hundreds everyday. The only thing between us and the end of this adventure was nearly 500 metal stairs that would take us to the bottom of the falls and the end of the trail.

Our adventure was over, but the memories of it would be lasting!

Epilogue:

Chris, Phil and I rewarded ourselves with a hotel stay in Skogár after our successful 4-day completion of the Laugavegur and Fimmvörðuháls Trails. Although pretty basic with shared bathroom and shower rooms, it was a luxury we enjoyed. It was especially nice not shivering through the night!

The next day we woke up to a warm, sunny day. Phil treated us to a delicious fish and chips lunch at a very popular roadside trailer. Then we headed over to Skógafoss to get a group picture to memorialize our shared experience and wait for the Strætó bus back to Reykjavík.