Author: Don Alberto

The past two weeks have been absolutely amazing. Although we sumitted Mt. Kilimanjaro and experienced the vastness of the Serengeti, both indelible experiences, we will never forget the wonderful people of Tanzania.

On Kilimanjaro, our team truly made us feel part of a very large family… not simply paying clients. Their joy in our achievement (which would not have occurred without all their incredible support) was palpable and deeply genuine. It is these friendships that we will cherish and remember, as much as our experiences on the mountain.

After the Kilimanjaro experience, we spent long days in the landcruisers as we drove hundreds of kilometers through the countryside. The scenery was striking and the sights somewhat exotic. It was quite normal to see zebra and giraffe grazing in the same roadside fields as cattle and sheep. A sight both strange and wonderful.

Everywhere we went we saw young children walking to or from school, easily identifiable in the standard school uniform worn by all who attend the nationalized school system through the age of 13.

We visited two orphanages and were heartened and humbled by the generosity and commitment of the men and women who care for these young kids, providing a loving environment along with food, shelter and education. There is a lot of need for steady resources to sustain these sanctuaries for those who have so little.

None of us will forget this experience; it left an imprint on our hearts and in our minds. Tanzania is a wonderful place, the people are generous and kind, and the sights are wonderful to behold. Thanks sharing the adventure!

We spent our first of two nights at a tent camp on the Serengeti. This was a small encampment with 10 large tents, 6 for guests, and one each for dining, kitchen, camp staff, and safari guides. Our first night was restful with the sounds of various nocturnal animals nearby. Interestingly, the camp staff includes a Masai warrior who stays up all night to protect the camp. A heavy rain fell throughout the night, so the large safari land cruisers will definitely be needed to travel through the muddy savannah.

After a wonderful breakfast, we loaded up the vehicles to begin our explorations for the day. Within 15 minutes we sight a large group of 15 vehicles arranged in a circle. Our two vehicles join the circle and we are rewarded with the sight of three cheetah consuming a fresh wildebeest kill. It is fascinating to see the circle of life play out in front of our eyes. After observing for about 45 minutes, we continue on. Very shortly we spy another trio of cheetah enjoying their own wildebeest while several vultures waited patiently in the nearby Acacia trees for their turn at the scraps.

The Serengeti is active with all kinds of wildlife. In a single field of view we see two female lions and a young male, 5 giraffe, and off on a nearby hill a massive herd of wildebeest and zebra.

Everywhere we turn their are new sights to behold. A small Dung Beetle proudly rolling a large ball of its namesake on the ground, an Impala with its spiral antlers, a pack of Mongoose scampering through the grass, and majestic Tawny Eagle quietly perched high in a tree, alert and ready.

Simple photographs cannot capture the scale of what we are seeing. Serengeti means “endless plain” in the Masai language, and it is an apt name. The vast landscape before us teems with animals and truly does feel as if it goes on forever.

We return to camp for lunch and a bit of a break from the rough terrain, then head out again. A storm is clearly looming off to the north and appears to be headed our way. Before long we are in the midst of a ferocious downpour, and our guide decides the prudent thing to do is hunker down in the landcruiser and wait for the storm to pass before proceeding. I suspect we are experiencing the leading edge of the looming wet season.

After a full day on the Serengeti, we return to camp for another fantastic meal and good night of sleep. The next morning, our last, we begin the long drive back to Arusha where we will spend one more night before returning home. As we head out, we are rewarded with yet another iconic sight, two lions resting in a tree. They are then joined by two more lions as we watch.

Due to the heavy downpour from yesterday and some additional rain during the night, the dirt tracks and stream crossings were a muddy, boggy mess. One of our Landcruisers got stuck in the mud, but fortunately the other, with a slight assist from a third vehicle was able to pull the stuck truck from the axle deep mud.

Finally, just when we thought we had experienced all the Serengeti had to offer, we stumbled on a family of elephants forging among the trees. A great way to end an unforgettable experience!

Today we embarked on a four day safari with guides Daniel and Johnson, that will take us to three different locations. First we head to Tarangire National Park, then the Ngorongoro Conservation Area, and finally Serengeti National Park. As we head southwest out of Arusha, we pass through the Cultivation Zone that surrounds Mt. Kilimanjaro. Along the way we see many Masai tribesman herding cattle, goats and sheep, dressed in the brightly colored Masai blanket that distinguishes these nomadic tribesmen from the more than 120 different tribes in Tanzania.

The farmland is comprised of rich volcanic soil used to grow two primary crops for the Maasai, maize and beans. These are perfect crops to sustain both their families and their herds. Other crops grown in the region include coffee, carrots, potatoes, and bananas.

The first of three safari locations is Tarangire National Park. Tarangire is translated as Warthog (gire) River (taran). The vast park has broad views, with a rolling terrain of hills and grasslands. The thorny acacia trees and broad-trunked baobab trees span the landscape.

As we drive through the park we see giraffes, ostrich, impalas, elephants, baboons, warthogs, zebra, water buck, a variety of colorful birds, and the smallest antelope, called dik dik, in their natural habitat. We even get to see a trio of cheetah off in the distance. It is remarkable to see these animals in their natural habitat. Meanwhile, Daniel and Johnson share their encyclopedic knowledge when answering the many questions we have.

Our day 2 safari destination is the Ngorongoro Conservation Area. Ngorongoro is an ancient caldera that was formed when the volcano magma chamber collapsed to form a 2,000’ deep caldera that is nearly 12 miles across and comprises 109 sq mi of grassland, marsh and a large alkili lake.

The descent into the caldera is steep, but once inside it is easy to see why so many different animals flourish here. The food is plentiful and the presence of predatory lions, hyena, jackals and leopards do not seem to alarm the wide array of grazing herbivores.

The crater is home to 7,000 wildebeest, 4,000 zebras, 3,000 eland, 3,000 gazelles, 600 hyena, 200-300 elephants, over 60 lions, 30 rhinos, and many others. In all, over 25,000 wild creatures call the Ngorongoro Crater home.

We spend several hours driving all over the crater floor and see all of the following animals and more: Thompson Gazelle, Cape Buffalo, Wildebeest (Gnu), Lion, Zebra, Pelican, Stork, Egyptian Geese, Flamingo, Hammerlock, Crown Crane, Grant Gazelle, Sacred Ibis, Grey Heron, Golden Jackal, Hippopotamus, Hyena, Rhinoceros, Eland Antelope (largest antelope), Warthog, Ostrich, and Baboon.

We end our long day, ending on the Serengeti as we arrive at our camp at sunset. When I get access to some of the pictures from those with telephoto lenses, I will update this post.

Day 7 (Summit Day): Uhuru Peak (19,341′), then descend to Mweka Camp (10,171′); 9.2 mi.

The first part of summit day occurred from midnight to 6:00 a.m., the time we reached Uhuru Peak, the summit of Kilimanjaro. Now it was time for the long descent. First, from the summit back to Kosovo Camp, our starting point for the day. When we entered camp, we were greeted by the entire Ian Taylor Trekking Team with an uplifting and spirited series of songs to celebrate our successful summit.

Then after a brief 2 hour stop to rest, breakdown camp, and eat a quick meal, we headed down to our final night on the mountain at Mweka Camp. Already awake since midnight and tired from our climb to, and steep descent from the summit, we summoned our last reserves of energy to make the long descent to Mweka Camp, located far below us at the top of the Rain Forest Zone.

This was not an easy descent… we were all tired, but the main challenge was the trail. Kosovo Camp lies in the Alpine Desert Zone where the steep trail is mostly comprised of uneven rock and sections of hardened lava the looked like very rough concrete. As we descended through Barafu Camp, which was located about 700’ below our camp, we were thankful that our day hadn’t begun there. First it would have added a very hard additional hour for the summit. Secondly, the camp was large and crowded, located in a steep, rocky area that probably spanned at least 500’ of elevation change from top to bottom. As we descended, we passed large groups of trekkers on their way up, who would be stopping for the night at this rugged outpost to begin their own attempts for the summit later in the night. We passed along our best wishes as they congratulated us on our achievement.

Below Barafu there was a dramatic change in the weather. For the most part, we had experienced about the best weather any of us could have hoped for during the past week. That changed when a cold sleet began to fall. We stopped briefly to put on our rain gear, then resumed the jarring descent. As we went lower, the air got thicker, but the sleet turned into a steady, cold rain that only made the rocky trail slick. By this point we were all ready to get to Mweka Camp and the warmth of the rain forest, but we still had hours ahead of us. Along the way we began to notice metal stretchers, and wheeled stretchers haphazardly lying on the side of the trail. These are pre-positioned along the trail to evacuate anyone who is too sick or injured to walk. Given the rough trail, I don’t think it would be a pleasant ride!

Finally after several hours of precipitation, the sky brightened and the rain stopped, lifting our spirits. Leaving the barren Alpine Desert behind, we enjoyed the change in scenery from rocks to shrubs, bushes and small trees covered with hanging moss as we re-entered the Moorland Zone.

This meant we were one ecological zone closer to the top of the Rain Forest Zone where our final camp was located at 10,171’.

Finally, our long day that began at midnight, included a successful climb to the summit, a 2 to 3 hour descent back to Kosovo Camp, and an additional 5.5 hours to Mweka Camp ended. After 16.5 hours we were greeted by some of our great porters who relieved us of our backpacks as we walked the final, tired steps into camp for a well-earned rest.

Day 7 (Summit Day): Kosovo Base Camp (16,010’) to Stella Point (18,885′) to Uhuru Peak (19,341′), 2.0 mi.

All the planning, training, and anticipation has led to this moment… the moment we step out of our tents at the Kosovo Base Camp into the frosty air at 16,010 ft, just 2 miles of trail, but still a very steep 3,331 ft below Uhuru Peak, the summit of Mt. Kilimanjaro. We begin our summit attempt promptly at 1:00 a.m. layered in every piece of clothing we have to protect us from the cold we expect to encounter further up the mountain. Just days ago we were in the rain forest, enjoying balmy temperatures and lush vistas. So much has changed… the terrain is rocky and bare, with no discernable vegetation. It’s probably best that it is nearly pitch black as we slowly exit camp and begin the final push to the summit. There is a hint of moonlight through the wispy clouds, just enough that we can make out the contours of the challenge ahead.

Due to the elevation, we are being very deliberate about our pace, maintaining the strict “pole-pole” pace (pronounced “poh lay poh lay”), which means “slowly, slowly” in the Swahili language of our guides. The pace is great for making this very difficult climb achievable, and surprisingly we warm up fairly quickly and begin to strategize about which layers to remove at the first break. Athumani has set a strict schedule that allows for a three minute break every hour, with the plan to reach Stella Point (the point that marks the crater rim and where the trail significantly flattens) at 5 a.m. From there. it is one more hour to Uhuru Peak, the summit of Kilimanjaro at 19,341’.

This is a tough climb given the elevation, steepness, and lack of sufficient sleep. But, this is what we signed up for when we chose this adventure… we knew it would be hard, and at times uncomfortable, knowing that all the pain and suffering are worth it in the end to stand on the breathtaking summit of Kilimanjaro. Our mantra for the summit push is: “Embrace the Suck” a term I learned from my friend Jesse… simply stated, it means: To consciously accept or appreciate something that is extremely unpleasant but unavoidable.

The route is steep and the trail seems to ascend endlessly into the dark ahead. All we can see is the few feet in front of us, illuminated by our headlamps and the reflection of ice crystals in the frost covered lava rocks. We are definitely reliant on our trekking poles to stabilize us and support us from falling during the occasional foot slip in the loose scree. The pole-pole pace helps us to move steadily, albeit slowly toward our goal, but the thin air and the cold are the predominate factors.

For this nighttime push to the summit, we have packed light. No sense in carrying any extra weight than absolutely necessary. The heaviest thing in our packs is the one liter of water that is packed inside the pack to prevent it from freezing. We hydrate and snack during our scheduled breaks.

There are three additional guides assigned for the summit climb, ensuring one guide for each of us if assistance is needed either going up or down.

After four hours of steady climbing in the dark, we finally crest the crater wall and see the frost covered sign that marks Stella Point. This in itself is a significant achievement, both emotional and uplifting. From here it is a relatively easy climb along the crater wall with steep drop offs on both the left and right. Behind us to to the east the sun is brightening the morning sky. Finally after nearly five hours of tremendous effort, we arrive at Uhuru Peak, the summit of Mt. Kilimanjaro and the highest point on the African continent. We are exhausted but thrilled to be sharing this moment.

Day 6: Karanga Camp to Kosovo Camp (16,010′); 2.2 mi.

Today was the staging day for our push to the summit. Last night at dinner we got our normal daily briefing from our Head Guide, Athumani, on the plan and what to expect today. The plan included an overview of the route and our planned wake-up, breakfast, and departure times. Additionally, we got an overview of the terrain we will be crossing and the planned time it should take us. All of this is important because the goal is to get to the next camp by noon, followed by lunch/dinner at 2:30, so we can spend the remainder of the afternoon and evening resting and/or sleeping since we have a midnight wake-up call for our summit bid.

Although we only hiked about 2.2 miles today, it took us 4 hours. That may seem like a long time, but in that short distance we ascended 2,854, at an already high elevation, to the Kosovo Base Camp that sits in a relatively flat area at 16,010’.

Along the way we passed through the Barafu Base Camp that most trekking companies use. For two reasons we were happy that we hiked the additional 45 mins and gained another 700’ in elevation. First, Barafu Camp is very large and crowded, located on a steep, rocky slope… not the best place to start a summit bid. Second, Kosovo is closer to the summit, which means we can rest a bit longer and hopefully rise refreshed and ready for what we all expect to be a challenging and very long day.

Fortunately everyone in our group remains in good spirits and good health, so we are quietly confident that we will stand together on the summit to witness a spectacular sunrise.

Wish us luck…

Day 5: Barranco Camp to Karanga Camp (13,156′); 3.5 mi.

Once again we awoke to a clear sky and mild temperatures despite the nearly 13,000’ elevation of Barranco Camp. Today was a relatively short day, although there were some significant challenges. Directly after breakfast we descended about 200’ to the bottom of the Barranco Wall, a 984’ rock wall with a steeply ascending rocky trail. Nicknamed the “Breakfast Wall” due to the fact that it is the first thing encountered on the trail between Barranco and Karanga Camps, it is a slightly technical climb that requires both hands and strong legs to span some of the more treacherous sections. Fortunately our four guides watched over us like hawks and lent assistance with a hand hold or foot placement when needed.

Once we successfully scaled the wall, we enjoyed a well deserved break with phenomenal views of the clouds below us from our perch at 13,900’. Downslope from us lies the Karanga Valley which funnels water from Kilimanjaro to the farms far below. Since our next camp is at 13,156’ we were all under the impression that the remaining miles would be a gentle downhill walk. But alas we were wrong, instead we “enjoyed” the opportunity to go steeply downhill, then steeply uphill… twice!

Needless to say, we were happy to walk into the Karanga Camp for what we all agreed was a well earned rest. Both today and tomorrow are short days to allow us to begin our push to the summit tomorrow at midnight.

With so many different trekking companies offering treks, there are hundreds of people on the mountain. Making all of this possible are the amazing porters who carry absolutely everything needed to operate these temporary camps. Every day they travel up and down the same trails we are traversing. It is quite humbling, but greatly appreciated, to see these incredibly hard working men and women carry the large, heavy, unwieldy loads on their backs, and often balanced on their heads. They truly are the heroes of Kilimanjaro, for without them none of this amazing experience would be possible.

Londrossi Gate (7,546′) to Mti Mkubwa (Big Tree) Camp (9,186′); 3.6 mi.

After two years of delays encountered due to COVID-19, surviving the roulette-wheel of COVID-testing that began back in the U.S. 4-days prior to our departure, and passing additional tests and protocols upon landing in Tanzania, we are finally beginning our long-anticipated adventure to the “Roof of Africa.” Our day began early, relishing the last hot shower we will experience until we exit the mountain 7 days from now. After a hearty breakfast and one last check of our gear, we boarded the van for the three-hour drive to Kilimanjaro National Park. Along the way, we marveled at the sheer size and scope of this massive mountain that loomed in front of us. Over the course of the next week, I expect we will become intimately familiar with its’ rugged and beautiful contours.

Since Kilimanjaro is located 205 miles south of the equator, the seasons aren’t really defined by summer and winter. Rather, the predominate determination of the conditions is the wet season or the dry season. We are climbing during the December through March dry seasons (the other occurs from June through September), so we hope to not encounter too much rain. The other advantage of being here during the dry season is that it coincides with an increase of animals migrating across the savannah (more on this topic when we go on the post-trek safari!) Another fun fact being this close to the equator… generally speaking, day and night are evenly split.

Upon arrival at Londorossi Gate, a flurry of activity begins. This is where we offload the vehicles and transition for horsepower to human power. While we enjoy a nice lunch, freshly prepared by our 2 chefs (Idi and Saidi), our head guide, Athumani (who just happens to be the reigning “Kilimanjaro Guide of the Year”) is busily coordinating his team of porters to distribute and weigh the gear and supplies we will be using over the next week.

Our group of 7 trekkers is supported by full team of 38 staff members comprised of 4 guides (Athumani, Maximilian, Sedenga, and Shabani), 32 porters, and 2 chefs. Although this may sound like a lot of people to support a small group, it is important to remember that eco-tourism is a major economic driver in this region and the team that is supporting us relies on these coveted positions to earn a living. Additionally, the better trekking companies like the one we are using (iantaylortrekking.com) have developmental programs that invest in both their employees and the local community. Those with drive and ambition to advance from runner/porter to the top guide positions have opportunities to grow with the company.

While Athumani procures our permits, the porters are weighed with the gear they will carry. Our group has affectionately been dubbed “The Dream Team” due to their experience and high degree of professionalism. They will be carrying everything we need for the week including, tents, a full kitchen, fresh food (with one major resupply on day 5) and even two chemical toilets with their own privacy enclosure. Each porter is strictly limited to carrying 15kg (33 lbs). Because of the weight limits, we have tried to avoid carrying extraneous gear, only including what we will use during the climb.

There are 7 main climbing routes to the top of Kilimanjaro, ranging from 5 to 10 days. The 8-day Lemosho route that we are using is one of the longest, but it also has one of the highest success rates due to the extra time built into the schedule to acclimatize to very high elevations. Because it is longer, there is less traffic. After lunch, we are finally on our way under the watchful gaze of Shamani, Sedenga and Maximilian as they lead us through the rainforest and remind us to “sippy sippy” to stay hydrated on the steady climb to camp. Occasionally we stop to learn about some of the plants along the trail. We even get to see some of the many Blue Monkeys that live in the forest around camp. Overall, today was a good test of our fitness as we climbed the narrow path to Big Tree Camp for our first night on the mountain.

Finally, after 3 hours of hiking, our long day which began in Arusha ends as we enter the forest clearing at Mti Mkubwa Camp to see that our campsite has already been erected by our professional staff. Tomorrow will bring new adventures as we transition to the open terrain of the Moorland Zone.