Wine and Coastal Sunshine

The final two days of our Oregon adventure began in the small historic town of Jacksonville, OR which was designated as a National Historic Landmark in 1966. This small town in the middle of the Applegate Valley wine region is as close to an old western frontier town as you can see these days. As soon as we arrived the previous evening directly from our river campsite, we all enjoyed refreshing hot showers then headed out for a nice dinner. Then it was off to bed to rest up for a busy final leg of the Giro d’Oregon.

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All cleaned up and hittin’ the town at the Bella Union in Jacksonville, OR

With several forest fires in the area, we woke to a smoky sky and a real sense that there was some serious work in the nearby hills to get control of the seven different fires that were being fought. Of course we were no help, so we spent the morning peaking into the various shops along California St., the main thoroughfare through the center of town. Then it was off to enjoy some wine tasting at a couple of the nearby wineries. We first visited the Red Lily Vineyards on the recommendation of our waitress the previous evening. This was a wonderful small winery in an idyllic setting. We even had the opportunity to meet the owner, Rachael who shared her story and clearly showed pride in what she had created. Interestingly, on our way to the Red Lily we passed an entire field of cannabis that was being tended to by two field hands, and protected by a barbed wire fence and a security guard who was patrolling the perimeter on a quad.

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Cultivated cannabis… entirely legal in Oregon.

Our second stop was the Schultz Glory Oaks Vineyard and Farm, owned by Greg and Debbie Schultz. The reason we chose this particular winery was because a friend from Fredericksburg who owns a business that makes wine barrel staves, happened to be a college classmate and fraternity brother of Greg Schultz. This small connection made for a fun visit where we instantly felt like and were treated like family.

After two flights of wine tasting it was time to head north to Eugene, so we’d be positioned for our final day to head west to the Oregon Coast. Since we had a full day already planned for Sunday, we searched some of the towns along the way to see if there was a Catholic mass that we could attend. After some aggressive, but safe, driving, we made it to 5:00 p.m. mass at the St Joseph Parish in Roseburg, OR. Then we continued the final hour drive to Eugene, where we mistakenly strolled into the Holiday Inn with all of our bags, before the desk attendant informed us that we needed to go to the Holiday Inn Express which was around the corner. Of course I got ample grief from the rest of the group since I was the one who suggested we unload all the bags before check-in! Finally settled, it was off to bed…


The Last Day:

Our final day is upon us… we woke to another beautiful, clear day. After breakfast we headed west for the 1 1/2 hour drive to the coast. When we arrived we immediately noticed the low clouds of the marine layer sitting atop the cold surface of the Pacific Ocean, while the rest of the sky above us was a brilliant blue. As we headed north on Hwy 101 from Florence, OR, we took numerous opportunities to stop at various roadside lookouts to take in the absolutely magnificent scenery. Some of our stops included Cape Perpetua, the Yaquina Head Lighthouse in Newport, and the Devil’s Punchbowl. We continued our coastal excursion up to Lincoln City, stopping at a glass blowing studio and a pottery studio to do a bit of shopping.

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We then turned back to the northeast to head back through the Willamette Valley wine region on our way to Portland to catch our red-eye flight back to Virginia. This late afternoon drive through some of the most beautiful vineyards any of us had ever seen was the perfect ending to our weeklong adventure in Oregon.

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The Willamette Valley
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A little bit of Tuscany in Oregon!

Over the course of our trip, we were all struck with the diversity and beauty of this state. If you are ever in search of a new vacation destination, put the Tour d’ Oregon on your list!

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Time to head east, back home to Virginia… its been a blast!
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Rafting on the Rogue

Our entire group taking a break for lunch

After 3 days and two nights of camping that included two full days of rafting on the Rogue River, we are back on the grid and ready to enter the final phase of the Tour d’ Oregon… wine country and coastal sights. But before we get to that, let me catch you up on the past three days.


After loading up and getting some last minute supplies (mainly booze!), we made the drive from Klamath Falls over the Cascades to the Rogue Valley. At around 2 p.m. we rolled into our campground at Almeda Park, located on the Rogue River about 15 miles west of Merlin, OR. Already, the mini-homestead that would be our base of operations for the next three days was taking shape. Two of our group’s RV trailers were already set-up, and the other two RV campers quickly scoped the landscape to begin setting up their rigs. Meanwhile, the intrepid tent-campers began to unload gear and set-up our respective tents. It really is quite a sight to see the site take shape over the course of the afternoon as more and more of our large family and friends group arrived from various points across Oregon and from as far away as Seattle. Ultimately, our homestead consisted of two campers, two trailers, seven tents, a full kitchen and washing station, and even a portable toilet for the those inevitable middle-of-the-night urges (… with strict rules that it is only to be used for liquid relief!).

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The quiet moments before everyone wakes up…

After everyone was set-up, it was time to get down to the business of relaxing and enjoyment of camp life… catching up on each other’s lives, enjoying some refreshing beverages and tasty snacks, some competitive games of corn hole, and as always doing our best to poke at everyone’s quirks. Dinner was prepared by our 3 retired firefighters (Larry, Rich and Jim) and the supporting cast of their wives who provided all the sides. Then it was the typical campfire routine, and the gradual, quiet shuffling off to bed to rest up for the next two days of rafting.


Rafting Day 1:

Day 2 of camping began bright and early for me at about 4:30 a.m., so I used the time to play around with some of the night lapse settings on my camera to get some shots of the stars, make the fire, and get the coffee brewing. Shortly after, around 5:15, Sue popped out of her tent and we chatted a bit (quietly… I thought… until later when at least 5 different people told me I had woken them up!)

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Just before dawn…

Over the course of the next two hours, the rest of the group woke and a hearty breakfast of eggs, hash browns, and thick cut bacon was prepared and enjoyed by all. We then began our preparations for a day on the river. Coolers were packed, the first of many applications of sunscreen were applied, we discussed logistics and river safety, then headed out to the river.

Today’s float was from Hog Creek back to our campsite at Almeda. Although the river seems to be running a bit low, the day was quite fun. The rapids were a bit tamer than in past years, but that didn’t diminish the fun. Our on-river group included 3 large rafts, each with 4 people; one “paddle raft” piloted by 6 of the 20-30’s crowd; one single-person pontoon; and 3 kayaks. After a couple hours we stopped for lunch at our favorite partially shaded sandy beach. Refreshed and refueled, we then headed back down the river. Since we got a later than normal start, the larger rafts had to work quite hard as they were rowing directly into the face of the typical afternoon westward winds that blow up the river from the coast. On the river we saw a bit of wildlife, including 3 bald eagles, and off in the distance what appeared to be a developing forest fire that was getting some aid from the afternoon winds.

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One of many fires in the area.
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Part of our flotilla on the river… another beautiful day!

Finally around 5 p.m. we landed back in camp, tired and ready to clean up and relax… and to enjoy all the fixings of our “Taco Night” dinner! After dinner a new camp game called Kubb was introduced and proved to be an entertaining competition to watch between two teams of 4. After that it was another early bedtime to get fully rested for whatever adventures we’ll have tomorrow when we will see a different part of the river.


Rafting Day 2:

During our second day of rafting, we retraced the lower portion of the first day’s route, then proceeded past our campsight after we stopped there for lunch. The highlight of the morning had to be witnessing an Osprey attempt to lift a large trout out of the water within 25 feet of our boats. This all started when we heard, but did not see, a splash in the water… a few seconds later, the osprey which was totally submerged, exploded through the surface of the water, flapping its wings madly as it attempted to lift what appeared to be 12 inch trout out of the water! Ultimately the prize was too big and the fish was lost back to the river.

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Osprey with eyes a bit bigger than its stomach!

After lunch, we continued down the Rogue enjoying the views as the canyon narrowed a bit and the water seemed to move a bit faster. One of the favorite places to stop is “jump rock” where we witnessed some very high jumps, a dive, and even a backflip! Then it was off to the biggest rapid of the trip which features two large rocks to be avoided in the churning water. Fortunately the smaller crafts all maneuvered well through the section and completed it unscathed. But, two of the three large rafts broadsided the upstream rock due to the force of the water and dumped everyone into the river. Luckily, all those who suddenly were wet when they were supposed to be dry had listened to the safety brief, and executed the proper technique in the water to avoid injury. In the end one hat and a pair of glasses were lost.

After a few more rapids, some floating, and a water cannon fight, the day on the river was complete. Now it was time to head back to camp, pack up, and ready ourselves for our final two days. Thank you to the extended Burg, Swanson, Miller, Court, and Shattuck families for their generosity and kindness in sharing these last few unforgettable days with us!

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Rafting Crew – Day 2

Rafting Video Links:

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Sherpa Pacin’ in Oregon

Mt Hood as seen from Trillion Lake

It’s been a busy two days that started with our departure from Portland to begin the “adventure” phase of the trip. Once again we woke up to almost perfect weather… just a bit warm. More importantly it’s been clear, so we continue  to enjoy all the fabulous views unabated.

Day one of this two day post included a full itinerary that included a visit to Mt Hood, the highest mountain in Oregon; followed by a drive into eastern Oregon to visit Smith Rock State Park, a hidden gem and international rock climbing mecca; and finally an overnight stop in Bend, and the opportunity to visit with my high school buddy John Warinner and his lovely wife Amy for a wonderful dinner.

Mt Hood was majestic… and a busy hub of summer recreation and tourists. Snow boarders were busy heading up the lifts to enjoy some summertime skiing on the Palmer Glacier, and mountain bikers were mounting up to ride the many trails. Of course many tourist like us were simply there to enjoy the views and see the historic Timberline Lodge. We learned about its 15 month construction in 1937 by the Civilian Conervation Corps, an FDR New Deal Program. It was amazing to learn how this hand built masterpiece was constucted entirely from materials found on the mountain, from the massive Douglas fir beams to the stone work using the mountain’s own volcanic rocks.

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There are actually quite a few folks skiing on that glacier behind us!

Then we headed southeast across the Cascades to the arid open vistas of central Oregon. Our 125 mile drive highlighted the natural diversity of the 33rd state. After a quick lunch in the small town of Madras, we arrived at our second destination for the day, Smith Rock State Park. This beautiful and rugged landscape features towering, sheer-faced basalt rock walls rising from the peaceful Crooked River; a place that climbers from all over the world visit for its accessible and challenging climbs.

Although it was easily 100 degrees with little shade to be found, we hiked down to the river and among the massive  walls, and were once again be stunned by so much natural beauty. The hike back to the top wasn’t quite as fun, but we all survived. More importantly it reminded me that I needed to incorporate the lessons learned in Nepal from Kalden Sherpa into our more ambitious outdoor excursions… so tomorrow’s hike at Crater Lake will most definitely feature “Sherpa Pace!”

Hot, sweaty, and tired we drove the last 30 miles into Bend for a quick stop to freshen up, followed by a tasty dinner with John and Amy. All in all, another good day on our Oregon adventure.



Today started for me, with a 6 am trip to Walmart to buy some shoes for Joanie… during yesterday’s activities she blew a tread on her sneakers and they had to be unceremoniously retired into the trash can. On the way back from Walmart, I decided to find the last remaining Blockbuster video store in America… which just so happped to be located within a mile of our Bend hotel. Pic snapped to record the momentous location, I headed back to meet up with Joanie, Sue, and Marty for breakfast.

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The last Blockbuster in America!

Then it was off to the main event of the day, our visit to the brilliant deep blue hues of the always stunning Crater Lake National Park. Our goal was to hike from the rim, down the steep 1.1 mile trail to the lake itself at Cleetwood Cove. This hike begins on the rim of the crater at an elevation of 6,831 feet and descends the wall of the volcanic cauldron to the lake’s surface at 6,175 feet. We carried plenty of water and a picnic lunch to enjoy at the lake.

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Crater Lake National Park

After reaching the lake, there was an immediate urge from one of us (not Joanie, not Sue, and not Marty) to jump into the crystal clear, cold, but absolutely refreshing water of this 1,949 foot deep lake. I joined other intrepid souls at the jumping rock to make two dives into the lake and was immediately refreshed and energized.

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Nice form!

We then all found a nice shady spot for our picnic lunch and some time to simply enjoy the location we were at. Then it was time to make the inevitable climb back to the top, and the application of yesterday’s lesson… Sherpa Pace.

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Lunch on the lake!

I think my Sherpa teacher and friend, Kalden Sherpa, would have been smiling with approval as we slowly and deliberately made our way as a tight group up the daunting and difficult trail. Sherpa Pace ensured that we all arrived back at the top, able to talk and breath normally, and still smiling!

The final part of the day was our drive to Klamath Falls to hook up with Karen and Larry (sister and brother-in-law) for the next leg of this adventure, rafting and camping on the Rouge River. On the way we were caught by surprise when the traffic ahead of us was stopped. We too came to a stop and then quickly discovered the reason for the delay… two horses walking directly up the highway, then right on past us!

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Just two horses strolling down Hwy 62 to somewhere!

Finally, we arrived at Karen and Larry’s home where they hosted us for a wonderful fresh Chinook salmon dinner made with fish that Larry had caught during last fall’s salmon run at Gold Beach, OR. The meal, memories and laughter are to be cherished.

For the next three days we will be off the grid, on the Rouge River… please tune in later for our rafting stories.

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Sasquatch Sightings

Mt St. Helens

I don’t really know how to say this delicately, but day two of the Giro d’Oregon kicked off with a lively breakfast discussion about the apparent after affects of eating a very rich and decadent donut the night before… resulting in one of our group (to remain forever nameless) recounting a successful morning routine that apparently involved something called the “voodoo doo doo!”

This in turn became a minor theme for the day, but more on that later… The highlight of today was a visit to the Mt St. Helens National Volcanic Monument, a two hour scenic drive northeast of Portland. Along the way we saw a doe and her two fawns up close and personal as they leisurely strolled across the road 10 feet in front of our car. Even more exciting was an entirely unexpected encounter with Sasquatch (aka Bigfoot) the mysterious and rarely seen creature that roams the forests of the Pacific Northwest… we even got a picture to prove it!

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Sasquatch enjoying a sunny day with his new friends!

Continuing up the road, Mt St. Helens and the terrain forever changed in the May 18, 1980 blast loomed. We stopped at numerous overlooks, which only served to whet our appetite for the visit to the Johnston Ridge Observatory, named after USGS volcanologist David A. Johnston who was standing at that same point when he was the first to witness and announce the cataclysmic explosion with the words “Vancouver! Vancouver! This is it!” Only to be swept away by the massive lateral explosion racing toward him from the side of the mountain that seconds later took his life.

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You can even see a wisp of steam rising from the cauldron!

The power, devastation, change and rebirth of this event underscores a healthy respect and continued amazement of the natural world around us.

Earlier in the day… much earlier (at 6:31 am to be exact), Sue made sure to get our priorities straight for the day by texting info on a place to have lunch, namely because it featured the St. Helens Burger, a gastronomic masterpiece that we just had to seek out and try! So on our way down the mountain, we found the Fire Mountain Grill at 19 Mile House. This is a wonderful restaurant overlooking the Toutle River that serves the Bigfoot Burger, an eating challenge that if successful would result in a free t-shirt. Although tempting, we conducted a quick risk-reward assessment and determined that the risk of severe intestinal discomfort and the real possibility of a “Sasquatch Sh#t” (… I told you we would get back to that theme!) far outweighed the reward of a $15 t-shirt. Instead we decided to simply split the burger and pile of fries four ways. It was a delicious lunch, with room leftover for mountain berry and peach cobbler.

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Lunch for four!

Then it was back to Portland for a visit to the massive and iconic Powell’s City of Books where you can do some fun people watching, and maybe even pick up some interesting reading material.

We ended a fun day at the Widmer Brothers Brewery for a refreshing pint and a game of darts.

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Giro d’Oregon (Grand Tour of Oregon)

Although the next series of blog posts will have absolutely nothing to do with Everest Base Camp, I hope they will describe another adventure we have just begun with our good friends Marty and Sue Bridi.

For the past seven years I have made an annual trip out to Oregon to enjoy a fantastic couple of days of rafting, camping, and camaraderie with family and friends. My sister Karen and her husband Larry generously host us for this annual event, which I always look forward to. Last year, my wife Joanie joined in on the fun for the first time (because it allowed her to visit our son, John, who was living here at the time). Well… it turned out that she had such a great time that we both thought it would be a nice event to share this year with Marty and Sue, who had never been to Oregon.

With Joanie’s positive report and encouragement… which amounted to “if I can camp in a tent and use a vault toilet for a couple of days on the river and have fun, then I think you’d enjoy it too… why don’t you think about coming along next year?”

So, here we are on what we are affectionately calling the “Grand Tour of Oregon.”

It all started today with a 3:30 a.m. wake up for the early flight from Virginia to Oregon. Surprisingly, at least for me because I generally have horrible luck with the airlines, both flights were perfect, reasonably comfortable and actually arrived early! To be fair I think I have to give credit to our former parish priest, Father Keith Cummings, who we coincidentally bumped into at the airport as he was leading a group of high schoolers and chaperones on a mission trip to the Dominican Republic. Father Cummings graciously offered a blessing on us for our trip as we parted ways at the bottom of the escalator.

Once we arrived in Portland, we got the rental car with no delay, headed out for a quick lunch, then made the scenic drive along the Columbia River Gorge out to Multnomah Falls. Along the way we took a scenic detour to the south ridge above the river and stumbled into the Vista House Overlook at Crown Point, where we were able to enjoy some panoramic views of the river and gorge which forms the border between Oregon and Washington.

With the early wake-up, cross-country flight, and scenic visits, we were all beginning to wear out, so we checked into our hotel to freshen up, get a short nap, then head into Portland. We decided to go to Mass at St. Mary’s Cathedral of the Immaculate Conception, a beautiful cathedral in downtown Portland (which just happens to share the name of our home parish in Fredericksburg, St. Mary of the Immaculate Conception!)

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St. Mary’s Cathedral of the Immaculate Conception

Then it was time to walk the streets of Portland, a unique city with a tremendous about of social and socioeconomic diversity. If you are into “people watching,” Portland won’t disappoint! Since we were in the area, we couldn’t pass on the opportunity to get a tasty snack at the famous Voodoo Donuts… I’m pretty sure Mr. Voodoo himself served us!

Then it was off to the Benson Hotel for a drink and some appetizers at their ornate and historic bar. Now, this was a happening place where we even got invited to peak into a wedding reception for John and Joe… it looked like the couple and their largely male guests were having a great time!…

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Cheers from Don, Marty, Joanie, and Sue

Finally it was time to get back to the hotel to get some rest (since we’ve essentially been awake for 24 hours) before embarking on the many other adventures we have planned.

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Bathrooms… the “good” and not so pleasant!

Its been about one month since our return from Nepal and our trek to Everest Base Camp… and I’d do it again in a heartbeat! This was the rare vacation that was so indelible that I often find myself reflecting back on the whole of the trip and happily sharing the experience with anyone who finds interest in the story. So why, you may ask, does a two-week hike in the mountains leave such a deep mark? There are several reasons that come to mind:

  1. We were immersed in the Sherpa culture, with daily opportunities for glimpses into the lives of these amazing people. Although life is simple, when compared to western standards, it is substantive, family centric, grounded in a deep faith, and generally unencumbered by to “noise” of 24 hour news cycles and non-stop social network and news “feeds.” Life is very much outwardly focused and not insular and self-involved.
  2. We set a goal and achieved it… as a group! Unlike a lot of vacations that are focused on either relaxing or sightseeing, this vacation required preparation and work. We all had to commit ourselves to carving out the necessary time to physically prepare ourselves in the months leading up to the trek. This took on many forms (which you can read about in some of the earlier blog entries), but paid dividends on the trail. As a result, both of our goals were achieved: making it to Everest Base Camp and reaching the summit of Kala Patthar.
  3. The time spent in preparation, conversation, and shared experience with Ron, Karen, Alan and Deb, and me is something both lasting and unique between us.  In the months leading up to the trek, our family bond was reinforced through the numerous voice, email, and text conversations to compare notes about our preparations and gear. During the trek, we were reminded about how different each of us are, but as a whole how our various strengths melded in a way that made us stronger as a group than any of us could have been on our own.

Okay… onto the real subject of this post, the long-promised “Bathroom Blog!”

We all have to expel bodily waste, but sometimes we can’t be too choosy of the “facilities” we get to use. In the Himalaya, we certainly experienced just about every option conceived by man… Of course the most sought after option was the “sit-upon flush toilet,” while the least preferred option was affectionately called the “squatty potty.” Other options were what I call “slats” (the outhouse version of the squatty potty), and of course au natural. But… lest you think that one is better than the other, you also have several additional factors to consider, including cleanliness, flush-ability, and accessibility, before holding your nose and jumping in.

There were times when we’d stop for a tea break along the trail, and the first one to the bathroom would always report to the others what to expect. After awhile, we developed a sort of shorthand, like “nasty squatty” or “wide slats, don’t fall in!”or “normal toilet, pretty clean.”

Of course we got the nature experience too! For the gals, this meant finding a boulder for privacy or some other secluded spot. If none was available, a few of us would simply turn our backs and form a privacy wall. For the guys it was a bit easier to simply move off of the trail… the nice thing about this option were the views enjoyed while doing your business, so in a lot of ways, this was the preferred choice.

 

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Base Camp vs. Summit Bid

When describing this trip to family, friends and acquaintances, invariably someone would ask if any of us were ever interested or planning on actually going beyond Base Camp and climbing Mt. Everest. To put it succinctly… NO!

“But why?” you may ask…. Well let me list the many reasons:

  1. There is no need to name any part of our trek something as ominous as “The Death Zone” (the part of Mt. Everest that lies above 8000 m where climbers are racing the clock to survive during their final push to the summit).

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    Everest route from the south (Nepal)
  2. Our permit fee is $40… the permit fee to go onto the mountain is $11,000!
  3. Our trekking company has a 99% success rate of guiding clients to Base Camp, the commercial climbing expeditions won’t even provide a success rate.
  4. No frostbite… We fully expect to come back with all our fingers and toes!
  5. The worst we encounter during acclimatization days (when we hike to a higher altitude during the day, but sleep at a lower altitude to help our bodies adjust to the reduced levels of oxygen) maybe a flatulent yak… as opposed to building size blocks of ice that shift and move and frighteningly deep crevasses in the Khumbu Icefall (the glacier all climbers have to transit multiple times).
  6. The landmarks we encounter along the way are spectacular Himalayan peaks, rivers, suspension bridges, and villages… On the mountain some of the route markers are the permanently frozen bodies of dead climbers.
  7. Our equipment is no more complex than any weekend day-hiker requires; no need for crampons, ice axes, fixed ropes, oxygen canisters, tents precariously placed next to a 2000 m cliff, etc.
  8. Our evacuation insurance covers 100% of the route we travel (but hopefully we won’t need it).
  9. Our prep consisted of roughly three months of weekend hikes and gym workouts. The prepared Everest climber requires multiple years of high altitude mountain climbing experience and 30 days training at Base Camp and above.
  10. Weather won’t impact our goal of reaching Base Camp, whereas for the 1000+ climbers who pay upwards of $75,000 to attempt the summit are all compressed into a 2 or 3 day “weather window” creating a traffic jam at the top of the world with virtually no oxygen, and bitterly cold temperatures.

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    Traffic jam at the top of the world… too many people, means too much time in the Death Zone, which12 equates to increased risk and more deaths.
  11. Our trip cost are consistent with the price of a nice beach week vacation, vs. the cost of a luxury car or college education.
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Epilogue

If you’ve enjoyed following this blog and think that someday you may be interested in a similar adventure, I would strongly encourage you to put aside any inhibitions you may have and go for it. Although this particular trek was at times physically demanding and the living conditions somewhat austere, the opportunity to see the Himalayas “up close and personal,” while immersing ourselves in the Sherpa culture was one I will never forget.

Here are a dozen things to consider if you are interested:

  1. Don’t think that you can only do this if you are an avid outdoorsman with a lot of experience. We saw all kinds of people on the trail, from entire families with young kids, to men and women in their 70’s, and everything in between. We even met a gentleman with terminal cancer.
  2. Take the time to properly prepare. Although our group committed to this trek just 4 months before it started, we took the time to research trekking companies, learn about what we would experience, and prepare ourselves physically.
  3. Physical preparation is key. Taking the advice from our trekking company (Ian Taylor Trekking), we hiked at least every other week. These hikes ranged from 7-12 miles while carrying a 20lb backpack. Additionally, gym prep is critical for aerobic fitness and to build strength. I would strongly recommend the stair climber machine to build the leg strength for a trek like this one. Gauge your own fitness level to determine how much pre-trek prep you will need.
  4. Expect and accept the austere living arrangements. We were lodged and fed in local tea houses. These ranged from reasonably comfortable with in-room bathrooms and showers, to a basic room with nothing more than a small bed to sleep on and a shared toilet at the end of the hallway. All of these rooms lack heat, have plywood construction with no insulation, and rarely have electricity.
  5. Follow the advice of your guides to acclimatize properly. The elevations on our trek ranged from 8,900’ to 18,500’. In order to mitigate the affects of Acute Mountain Sickness (AMS), we spent 3 of our 12 trek days acclimatizing to the higher elevations. Additionally, we took a 125mg dose of Diamox each morning and night to increase the oxygen carrying capacity in our blood.
  6. Keep a slow but steady pace. You should be able to hike without getting out of breath. If you have to constantly stop to catch your breath, you are going too fast. While trekking in the Himalayas, it is usually the “tortoise” that beats the “hare.”
  7. Get the right gear and test it during your training hikes. Boots, backpacks, and all the various clothing layers are critically important. 
  8. Despite the austere conditions, maintain the best hygiene possible. Bring soft soap and hand sanitizer to keep you hands clean at all times. Most of the bathroom facilities do not have running water, so it is absolutely critical to wash/sanitize thoroughly.
  9. I highly recommend sleeping with ear plugs. Most tea houses feature thin walls and floors, so you can hear everything. If you want a sound sleep, ear plugs can block most extraneous noise.
  10. Be willing to try new foods. Generally speaking, as you get to the more remote villages, the food becomes pretty basic… rice, noodles, eggs, vegetables, etc. Also, bring along some of your favorite snacks, and flavor packets/drops for water since you will be drinking up to 5 liters per day.
  11. Communications are spotty at best. In most villages you can purchase WiFi access, but bandwidth is limited, which may affect what you are able to do.
  12. Bring along small gifts for some of the children you will encounter along the trail. There is a weight limit for your gear, so lightweight items are best. 10-15 items will allow you to periodically give a gift, without carrying too much extra weight.

Samples of various lodging at Tea Houses along the route:

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Day 14: End of the Line

We arrived in Lukla yesterday afternoon for our final night before heading back to Kathmandu. Our hotel is the Buddha Lodge, which is located right at the end of the runway, so we get to see all the action of helicopters and airplanes arriving and departing from this high altitude airfield that serves as the logistics and transportation hub for the region.

Yesterday afternoon, just prior to arriving in Lukla, we got a break from the rain and were invited to have tea at the home of our guide, Nigma Sange. After completing our journey, our head guide, Kalden Sherpa also invited us to his home for tea and we got to meet his beautiful wife Lakpa who is 8 1/2 months pregnant with their first child. They were so gracious in allowing us a glimpse into their lives. Both are very excited about the pending birth! Interestingly, there is a small hospital here in Lukla, but when the time comes the only way to get there is to walk up and down steep, uneven, stairs and pathways… another example of the strength of these people.

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Our gracious hosts and expecting couple, Kalden and Lakpa.

Due to a closure of the main runway in Kathmandu, we are once again forced to consider a helicopter flight (just like when we flew into Lukla 12 days ago) in order to avoid what could end up being a 1 to 2 day delay, which would impact our return flight to the U.S. Although we were all hoping to experience an airplane flight into or out of this airport, we can’t afford the domino effect of continued delays.

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Day 12 & 13: Going Up to Go Down

Departing Periche with stunning views of Thamserku and Kantega.

In the past two days we have hiked 21 miles while descending from Periche (13,900’) to  Lukla (9300’), crossed 11 suspension bridges over the Khumbu and Dudh Koshi rivers, and seemingly spent more time going up than going down due to the constantly undulating terrain.

Despite the long days, we continued to be impressed by the Sherpa people who live in the many small villages along the trekking route. This gentle culture is generous and kind. We were fortunate to have three of the very best guides (Kalden Sherpa, Nigma Sange, and Dorjee Sherpa) who cared for our every need, shared their culture and knowledge, and even opened their homes to us. This has been an experience that none of us will forget.

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Nigma, Dorjee, and Kalden at the monument to Tenzing Norgay.

Some days have been challenging, and a few in our group  dealt with symptoms of Acute Mountain Sickness (nausea, headache, loss of appetite, etc.), but in the end we pushed through the difficult moments and were rewarded with inspiring views and indelible memories of Nepal.

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Our last view of Everest…
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